Morning
I climb out of the saddle and wipe the
sweat from my forehead with the back of my hand. The day started out
cool enough, with a nice little northeast wind. My ride south had
been brisk and slightly chilled in the early light of dawn and I had
the world to myself, it seemed: the birds were singing their asses
off and there was the scrabbling of small animals in the undergrowth
along the shoulder and the road was empty and all mine. I had
planned to do my usual twenty-four mile loop that I call my daydream
ride but the morning planet was so new and fresh and enticing that I
turned right at my usual left hand turn and rode still further into
the forest.
All these roads I use for this quiet
loop were gravel or dirt up until a year or so ago. Then, for a
brief and magical break-in period they were pristine blacktop, smooth
and serene and like a gift of some kind. I never saw another cyclist
except once, but now I
see them every time I go that way. Group rides are common and a
group passed me this morning. I thought about trying to keep up but
quickly abandoned the idea. I am out of shape these days and riding
single speed and anyway, today was a long day of saddle time and
exploration, not speed.
The morning cool
has collapsed into another Florida day of heat and sweat and I
shoulder my bicycle and clamber over the huge mound left by the new
trench down the middle of White Beach Road.
Open
Heart Surgery
What the hell
happened here? This little trail was a kind of road through the
woods to a place on the river the locals call White Beach. For all I
know, the property was at one time owned by someone named White; but
we call it White Beach because after you pedal through several
hundred yards of woods, you break out into a fantastic place on the
Indian River that is a football field-size expanse of glistening
white sand, clusters of palm trees and a dark deep woods.
For many years
(decades) this has been a bonfire and hell-raising spot. It has been
a prime weekend destination for boaters looking for a place to picnic
and stretch out on the sand. It is a very private property, too be
sure; but that never seemed to matter until seven years ago when a
big development company out of Orlando bought the place with plans to
erect a nineteen story waterfront condominium tower. They
immediately put up a six foot fence around the whole property and
tore down the ages-old wooden gate that had long ago become more of a
symbol than a barrier, replacing it with a stout steel locking gate
and a big stout padlock.
With
A Rebel Yell
That fence and
that gate suffered all manner of vandalistic humiliation over the
years as outraged locals, refusing to accept the loss of what really
was a beautiful spot that had been forever wide open, alternately
plowed through the chain link with four wheel drive trucks, stole and
scrapped the gate for money, cut and used for a bonfire the tree the
owners had felled across the road and fought authority with relish
and the eternal rebel/cracker energy that makes us who (and what) we
are. Meanwhile, the faceless corporation behind this little war was
fighting a separate battle with the zoning board over their planned
gargantuan project. A nineteen story condominium in an area where
the next tallest building would have been one story tall, had there
been any other buildings in the area. This was just...awful.
It was a
ludicrous struggle but as usual good prevailed over evil, if a
jackass multimillion dollar development corporation counts as good
and frustrated village vandals should be considered evil. Yeah, the
county council approved the plans for this dark tower and then the
recession hit and it all became just another crazy Florida story.
It's
Mine! I Mean Ours! We Mean...Business!
But for some
reason, this corporation was adamant about keeping out the riff-raff
and now here am I, crawling over a big pile of sand with my bike on
my back, scrambling across the bottom of a four foot deep ditch down
the center of the old road, then back up the other side, using one
hand to steady the bike and one hand to claw my way to the top of the
diggings.
'What the hell,”
I muttered (out loud this time). It didn't make much sense. This
beach is readily accessible by boat; what would be gained by digging
this ugly gash along the old forest road? They must really want to
keep us out. But why? Now NOBODY could get in there, at least not
by car or truck. For a realtor to show this property (and there is
a big For Sale sign out front) they would have to bring prospective
buyers in by boat. But then again, this is Florida. Anything goes.
Down
to the River to Pray
I lean my
bicycle against a handy palmetto and brush off the sand. The day is
really warming up. I walk down to the river and wade out to where
it is knee deep. The place seems different. It feels different.
Across the river I can see Boy Scout Cut, a place where the water
rolls pretty quick on a falling tide and it is deep and cool and a
place of snook and trout. The Cut leads around a big spoil island to
the flats on the backside; many, many square miles of crystal clear
water only inches deep and it is a place of magic. It is only inches
deep and it takes a boat that can be poled or paddled to get in there
and move about. It is holy and there are redfish there and roseate
spoonbills and water fowl and fish hawks.
I could stand
here in this water all day. I have waded here and fished here; I have come here in my old boat with my old dog when she was a puppy and let her run and learn about fire and beer and shallow water and other dogs and the joy of the
shallows and chasing all manner of small fry...this was and will
forever be a place of my heart. There have been ashes scattered
here. This is the Indian River and this is Old White Beach.
And
So...
I turn from the
river and (of course) stare for a moment at my bicycle, trusty and
solid and ready and waiting. Made of steel and already old when she
became mine, we will be together for a long time. There are all too
few constants in our lives and we lose everything we cherish sooner
or later, or they lose us. But somehow, through luck good or bad (it
is hard to know) I have once and for all learned and gained the
bonding with something that will not die or leave for another or
simply turn away. With a minimum of care and a little love there
will always be a bicycle to turn to, a bicycle to ride, a bicycle to
get out there on and see the world both inside and out.
The dirty work
done by these new owners can stop a four-wheeler, but a man and a
bicycle are a different story. I gaze around at the scene of so many
good times and then I walk over to my bike. I'm not looking forward
to going back over that ditch. Did I mention that I am out of shape?
I take a long, wistful look around.
Yeah.
Yeah.
Oh,
the Dichotomy of It All
I know I will
see it again, coming in by boat. But I know this, also: I make my
living working for condo developers. There is a damn good chance I
will one day be down here wearing a hardhat and carrying a clipboard
and doing my part to take away from my beloved Florida one more
Florida place.
It is painful to
think about. I long ago gave up trying to reconcile my trade with my
love of wild outdoor places. I am a dichotomous sonofabitch but it
is a condition that I have learned to ameliorate with a little money
earned and a lot of beer and rum (drunk, dranken, partook of?) and
long sweaty bicycle rides; here am I : Old Tim Joe, wandering about
lost and found and seeking redemption.
I shoulder my
bicycle, take a deep breath, and head back over this latest scar on
the earth and on my heart. The day is young, even if I am not; there
is more to see and my ride home will be mostly into the wind, as
usual.
I wouldn't have
it any other way.
Whispering
Pines Trailer Park and Forgive Us Our Trespasses
#105